I have a mixed relationship with Chile’s Casillero del Diablo — some bottles are great, others are terrible. But in South America, you can’t swing a cockfighting rooster without hitting a bottle with their label on it, so you’d better drink it, or you’ll be in trouble. This one sits in the middle: a bit of smoke bumps up the excitement in this well balanced carmy. Paired equally well with spiny pasta as it did with the chocolate dessert.
