Quick Reviews
Viña Vieja Chenin Blanc Semi-Seco – Peru – NV
Suicidal diabetic decides to end it all by bathing in maple syrup. Someone took a winery and drowned it in pure, liquid glucose, then fermented the wine in bottles of sugar glass. To be clear this is not the Viña Viejo Chenin Blanc that won a 5-star review previously. This is the “semi seco” label variant, and is drastically inferior. Understand that in Perú “semi seco” is used to refer to wines that in any other country are cloying. I mean icewine level of sweetness. This is because the overall Peruvian palate loathes dry wine, and they measure the starting point somewhere near maple syrup and bags of ground stevia. This Chenin Blanc is simply too sweet, too cloying. Disappointing, and to be avoided unless you know what you’re getting into. Pair with twinkies.
Matetic Corralillo Riesling – Chile – 2020
“I get all my Riesling from Chile,” said no one ever. There’s a certain minerality that affects white wines coming from the country and this reez doesn’t escape it. There are hints of typical Riesling green apple but it’s overtart and lacks the smoother swig of French of German offerings. Again: tart AF. But lingering finish bumps this up 1/2 star.
Tacama Albilla d’Ica – 2020 – Peru
Low-rent housing district installs new fountain to attract tenants. Tacama is no great producer, so set your expectations accordingly. Grape up front, but settles down later and a vegetable hint emerges. Not bad for the price, which is dirt cheap. Should be packaged in a paper bag, but one with embossed lettering.
Escorihuela Gascón Viognier – Argentina – 2019
The latest sex toy proves popular with suburbanites. Peach for sure, some citrus behind it. Nice finish, very bright overall. Moderate sugar. A great example of New World viognier. Pair with light meats, fish, or your favorite softcore porno.
El Coto – Coto de Imaz Rioja Reserva – Spain? – 2017
Your mysterious car park pal has a cousin. This was served without aeration and proved fine right out of the bottle. Would have likely improved with some time in the air. Nose is slight cherry, but once in the piehole it’s leather and much darker fruit. Nice tannic bite. Short finish tho. Still questioning where this was made, not convinced it’s Old World.
El Coto Blanco Rioja – 2020 – Spain
Mysterious figure in a dark car park winds up being a great pal. Great Rioja with notes of slate, green apple, a tiny hint of spice. Comes off as part Sauvignon blanc, part Gewurztraminer, but all its own at the same time. Very different from typical Old World offerings. Priced to drink in bulk, too. Having said all that, I question the pedigree. Maybe Spain, but my Hombre Aranja senses tell me this is Spanish grapes harvested elsewhere.
Dominique Ferret – Vignoble de Cœur Côtes de Gascogne Rosé – France – 2018
Noseless and tepid, a hint of strawberry but only if you squint.
Evolúció Furmint – Hungary – 2017
Crisp and very clean Hungarian Tokaj, notes of melon and slight grass. Was served over chilled which probably hindered the tasting. Nice floral nose.
Mascota Vineyards OPI Cabernet Sauvignon – Argentina – 2016
Just in time for Christmas I tried this Scrooge of a wine: bitter and unpleasant, and overdue for a visit from the Ghost of Cabs Past. Very disappointing. Nose is black cherry, palate is finely aged gasoline.
Xabregas Spencer Riesling – Australia – 2014
Dull reez with little zip and less character, like a beaten up Volkswagen that’s had its radio stolen.