Quick Reviews
Von Wilhelm Haus Riesling Spätlese – Germany – 2017
Fantastic German reez with a great mix of tart apple and sweet flowers. Tartness might turn off those looking for a more traditional offering and keeps this from five stars but it’s otherwise great
Acumen Mountainside Red – California – 2014
Bold leathery nose, palate is black cherry and earth. Balanced tannins don’t overpower. Very nice and drinks well solo. Blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec.
Domaine de la Rochette Gamay – France – 2016
Nose of strawberry cupcake, palate is semi-dry bright berry with vanilla hints. Odd duck for a red but it’s proper French gamay, which is always fun.
Miolo Family Vineyards Tannat – Brazil – 2015
Green olive, with a blackberry note hiding behind the typical meaty notes. No leather here, this is a bit more fruity than offerings from nearby Uruguay. Tannat continues to be a surprising grape.
Altitude Project Chardonnay – California – 2017
Where the 2016 was impressive (for an airport wine) the 2017 drops a full star. Too oaky and lacking anything interesting. A low rent domestic chardonnay.
S.A. Prüm Essence Riesling – Germany – 2017
About the same as the prior year’s vintage, but perhaps with less grapefruit. Mild, pleasant and utilitarian, but a fine riesling from Germany which always ranks high in my book. Perfect Goldilocks level of sugar. Those who are not reez-obsessed like me would likely rate this a half star less.
Louis Latour Ardèche Chardonnay – France – 2016
Nose is grassy like a knoll, but without all that drama like the one in Texas. This is unoaked so there’s none of that California toothpick flavor here. A bit citric but not in a good way. Finish lasts a minute and then falls into forgetfulness. Paired with salami from a charcuterie board, and some other grassy flavors came out, as if someone had emptied their lawnmower into my mouth. Whereas this note is pleasing in a New Zealand SB, here it’s not.
Canyon Road Zinfandel White – California – NV
Grapefruit is all over this, with light floral nose and mild sugar. White zin gets a bad rap but this one is very nice. Will be fussy to pair with food but drinks well on its own.
Bell’Agio Chianti – Italy – 2016
Those bored by restaurant grade chiantis will find nothing new here. Tepid, a bit flat and nearly entirely noseless. Nice light tannins, moderate notes of cherry and tobacco, but blink and you’ll miss ’em. Better than “meh” but only barely.
Klinker Brick Old Vine Zinfandel – California – 2015
Just wow, a labyrinthine maze of notes such as blackberry, mint, chocolate, smoke and earth. It’s definitely an “in your face” experience and not for those afraid of robust flavors. Smooth and silky but not so much that it is dull. A potent glass by itself but will pair well with ballsy dishes too. Old vine zins are reliably good and this proves the point. Let your next cab take an uber, and try this instead.