Quick Reviews
Mollydooker The Boxer Shiraz – Australia – 2016
After a string of disappointing Shirazes (shirazae? shirii? shirazeses?) I was starting to think I had moved on. This incredible wine brings me back! This has all the best elements of a best in class Aussie ‘Raz: ample fruit, spicy notes and an earthy base. Finish is black cherry. Color is vampire bait. Just lovely.
Badenhorst Chenin Blanc Secateurs – South Africa – 2016
Chenin blanc is reliably great and this South African offering just proves it again. Lime, flowers and hint of spice come together nicely. A bit too much acid keeps this from a higher score.
Kanonkop Kadette Cape Blend – South Africa – 2016
An example of a red blend so understated by itself it needs a pairing to come alive. In this case, the wine is timid when alone, with subtle notes of wood and meats being barely discernible. But paired with a bold gorgonzola charcuterie plate, the pairing absolutely exploded. The wine exaggerated the flavors of the meat and cheese, completely making up for its poor solo start. This is what wine is supposed to do! Clearly, you must pair this or pass. blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Pinotage and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Raats Original Chenin Blanc Unwooded – South Africa – 2017
Had high hopes for this, and it came recommended by a sommelier, and lived up to the hype. Slightly less characteristic than other chenin blancs, and that’s saying something since CB is typically understated as is. This one lacks the usual perfume, but has gentle sweet fruit to make up for it. Drink solo as this won’t stand up to a food pairing. Low acid, very smooth, off dry. But fantastic by itself. 13.5% alcohol, so approach with caution.
Morandé Reserva Sauvignon Blanc – Chile – 2012
Interesting take on SB, this lacks the minerals of New Zealand or Old World offerings but makes up for it with some near chenin blanc levels of perfume and bright fizz. Possibly a tiny bit too sweet for most SB enthusiasts, but I enjoyed it. Pair with white fish only, as it’s likely to wilt next to anything else. Otherwise, highly recommended.
Eclipse Aconcagua Roble Malbec – Argentina – 2009
Fairly flat and dull Malbec probably made by equally flat and dull people. So, basically, wine made by accountants.
Tacama Gran Blanco – Peru – 2016
Flavorful white blend spoiled by a funky nose probably brought on by the sauvignon blanc, or some weird processing of the chardonnay. Would have ranked higher otherwise. Blend is of chardonnay, chenin blanc and sauvignon blanc.
Lapostolle Casa Grand Selection Carmenère – Chile – 2015
Very fine Chileno Carmenere, with oak and leather like that of a cab. Perfectly balanced tannins and acid, with oodles of black fruit, but only a slightly off aftertaste keeps this from five stars. Recommended. The Lapostolle mark is really hitting things home.
Maison Nicolas Ferrande Bordeaux Sauvignon Blanc – France – 2015
Light and airy SB is finitely drinkable, but watch that 12.5% alcohol. Very smooth with light fruity notes and the slightest hints of minerals as only the French do. Very nice by itself or paired.
Lapostolle Grand Selection Sauvignon Blanc – Chile – 2015
Smooth but with some vanilla overtones that invoke chardonnay, not SB. Mild tang, but needs more character: maybe more fruit, more sugar or more mineral, but what’s in the glass now is just okay, not great. Paired poorly with salmon dish. Watch out for that 13.5% alcohol.