Quick Reviews
Candela Borgoña Blanca Semi Seco – Peru – NV
This was slightly less raisiny than the winery’s red table wine offering, but only by a bit. Again, the raisin notes overpowered anything else, and given the terroir — someone’s roof — there are no other ways to introduce any additional nuances. I’d put this at less sugar, probably 65-80 g/l RS. Still sweet.
Read longer review here.
Candela Borgoña Negra Semi Seco – Peru – NV
Local Peru wine, so yes, it tasted like raisins. There’s just no getting around that when you use grapes intended for eating to make table wine. As for the “semi seco” part, it’s just not true. This is sweet as hell, and I would put this at 100 g/l RS at least. I’m not kidding, this is what they think is semi-dry. The wine itself had both a bitter foretaste and aftertaste, and there was no structure to speak of. There were no perceptible tannins at all.
Read longer review here.
Viu Manent Secreto Carmenère – Chile – 2016
Carmenere has quickly surpassed pinot noir as my reliable red wine choice for drinkability. This one carries on that job well. It’s mostly black cherry but with an impressive finish that brings up some smoke and spice.
Bodegas Etchart Privado Torrontés – Argentina – 2017
Extremely tart Torrontes with notes of maracuya and green apple. Paired well with fish and pickled onion plate but didn’t drink particularly well on its own. No year on the bottle, but the unreliable Vivino reported this as 2017.
Finca Las Moras Sauvignon Blanc – Argentina – 2017
Middling SB with bright fruit notes and some salty mineral afterglow bit nothing that makes it special. Good but not particularly memorable.
Columbia Crest Grand Estates Merlot – Washington – 2014
Cheap merlot that fails to rise above the preconceptions its price telegraphs. Wonderful nose of black cherry, spices and some wood, but once past the lips it fades astonishingly fast. Medium tannins don’t help. The flavors that are there are very nice, but just a bit too timid.
Castello di Gabbiano Chianti – Italy – 2014
Chiantis can be a bit too loud, like an Italian kitchen on gravy day. This one is anything but: a markedly shy chianti but nonetheless delicious. Very timid tannins and not much finish, but the flavors here are nice and friendly: subtle cherry (not too fruit forward) with hints of wood and pool chlorine (nicer than it sounds). A tart back end hits you for just a moment. Far better than some other reviews would have you think.
HobNob Pinot Noir – France – 2013
Jammy like jelly jam jammed with jelly, jammit. If you tried this without the label you’d almost not recognize this as a pinot noir, except for the characteristic shallow depth. It’s okay but maybe should be paired with peanut butter and Wonder white bread.
Echo Bay Sauvignon Blanc – New Zealand
(No year noted.) Classic NZ SB, salt and rocks and iron make this the wine of ancient mariners. Dry and slightly tart, this keeps the fruit at the door and instead revels in its flinty origins. Only the hardiest SB lovers will drink this unpaired.
Blüfeld Riesling Medium Sweet – Germany – 2011
Surprisingly not-sweet given the label, with an uncharacteristic minerality that rarely applies to a Qualitätswein riesling. It’s good, for sure, but the misleading expectations coat this a full star. Almost comes off as a blend.