Quick Reviews

MontGras Antu Syrah – Chile – 2012

Low tannins in this vintage make it chocolatey smooth but also hinder the character just a bit. Nose of tobacco and cocoa and then a rush of smoke and deep, deep black cherry follows through on the tongue. A touch of sugar keeps this from being called dry, but blink and you’ll miss it. I think if this has a bit more bite it could be a five star knockout but it’s still fantastic.

Arca Nova Vinho Verde – Portugal – 2014

Noseless but bright and fizzy on the tongue, lack of initial oomph makes you think you’ve just swigged seltzer water but give it a second and some pleasant floral tones come through. Needs more fruit to give it character but those who like their wines more subtle might like this. Pair only white bland dishes, because this won’t hold up to anything else.

 

Unparalleled Sauvignon Blanc – Marlborough NZ – 2014

Much better than the 2016 vintage (review here), this one hits enough of the right notes to earn a recommendation, albeit a cautious one. Tart fruit would benefit from more gravely minerals, but it’s nevertheless a very nice glass. I paired this with a steak which probably wasn’t smart, so stick with a classic fish pairing and your experience will likely be better.

Cooper & Thief – Red Blend – Lodi CA – 2014

Jammy and spammy. Too much fruit and the bourbon barrel thing comes off as gimmicky. It’s also way the hell too sweet, bordering on port. I’m not sure what this wine wants to be. Packs an alcoholic punch though. 38% Merlot, 37% Syrah, 11% Zinfandel, 7% Petite Sirah, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% random floor sweepings dipped in Jack Daniels or something.

Lo Nuevo Covello Albariño – Spain – 2015

Some will say this is overtart, with strong green apple present here, but I paired with a spicy portobello mushroom soup and it really matched nicely. Floral notes on the nose while apple and melon are dominant on the palate. You’d be forgiven for thinking this is a new world riesling from the nose, but one taste proves its something else. Perfect low sugar. It won’t be a hit for everyone but for me this was a knockout.

Marchesi di Barolo Gavi – Cortese – Italy – 2014

Cakey, with melon and very slight lemon hints, this was served too cold, but when allowed to get closer to ambient, really came forward. Don’t make the mistake our host did, and serve this overchilled! Pairs well with salad course, breads, and fish, but I daresay you could get crazy and try it up against bolder dishes. A little tart.

Apothic White – California – 2016

Remember the 5-star winning, Winepisser 2015 Best Wine of the Year, Apothic Red? Remember the follow-on near-winner Apothic Dark, which won 4 stars?

This isn’t either one of those.

Instead, this is just the thing you need if you are craving those artificial banana cream cakes they sell in all night gas stations, but liquefied and then poured directly into your mouth. Tastes like plastic and aspartame. Shockingly bad.

Worst wine of 2017 so far.