Quick Reviews

Dona Paulo – Los Cardos Sauvignon Blanc – Argentina – 2015

Drank this under optimum conditions, meaning I drank the entire bottle and got totally wasted. A rare admission for a wine reviewer. Overall, not a bad Argy Essbee, lacking the punch of its NZ brethren, but nevertheless enjoyable. Light on the tongue, fresh on the nose, this one hints of the apples and minerals typical of the breed but without biting you like a rabid puppy. Paired well with Chinese dish, but drank equally fine by itself. OK, but not amazing.

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Trivento Mixtus Shiraz / Malbec – Argentina – 2015

The wine equivalent of those bad movies that nevertheless pepper their posters with one-word, breathless proclamations from fake reviewers, the label of Mixtus includes descriptive words reflecting everything this wine is NOT: jammy! aromatic! expressive! Apparently, like the nutjob Japanese guy who said you can improve water by writing happy words on the bottle, the winemakers here hoped the words would seep through paper and glass and somehow infuse the wine itself. Surprising no one, this didn’t happen. This wine had so little nose I thought I had caught a cold and my sense of smell had fallen off (I didn’t.) It’s not a bad table wine if your palate isn’t particular, but it just lacks any oomph at all, making the label a hilarious exercise in wishful thinking. A case where two halves (shiraz and malbec) result in less than the whole.

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Gunther Schlink Desire Eiswein Dornfelder – Germany – 2012

Stewed prune and honey come together in a fantastic icewine from the Nahe region of Germany. This one stands up to the best of the New World bottles, which often surpass their European ancestors these days. A dessert wine that’s best paired rather than drunk solo, its dark color and syrupy texture nevertheless don’t come off as sugary or candied. Highly recommended.

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