Quick Reviews
Cave des Vins de Sancerre Les Champs Clos Sancerre Blanc – France – 2020
Upstarts don’t start, the old guys will finish you. The French can do little wrong with Sauvignon Blanc no matter how many New World countries try to unseat them. This is a fine Sancerre, but not the best of the breed. Nose is faint, maybe lemon if you can squint your nostrils. Flavor notes include usual lemongrass and flint but less biting than a New Zealand offering. Short finish will make this less memorable.
Philippe Dreschler Sylvaner – France – 2018
Minor league baller on the way up. Easy drinking but with 13% alcohol points to how mischievous those Alsatians can be. Nose is faint apple, tongue is a bit stronger of the same, but very, very subtle. Some slight citric tang, but only barely. Medium sugar. Very smooth going, but because it’s so flimsy, might not be memorable. Pair only with mild dishes, this one is too delicate to take on a strong cheese or spiced fish plate.
Château Ferrande Graves – France – 2016
That new politician has great oratory, but needs more time on the stump. Rich but still not as soft as it will be someday. Nose has some earth and leather, and palate is black cherry and slight wood. Reliable example of Graves region of Bordeaux. The grapes are Merlot and Cab Sauv.
Raimat Solana Chardonnay Albarino – Spain – 2018
Unpopular kid proves capable after all. Spanish blend of Chardonnay and Albarino, and is very nice overall. Low reviews elsewhere had lowered my expectations, so I was happily surprised. Main flavor notes here are mild (very mild) lemon, and some spiced apple. The alby really tempers the chardonnay nicely, but fans of pure chardonnay may be disappointed. Very drinkable, and would pair nicely with spicy Cajun fish. Don’t let the price or other reviews fool you.
Casa Ferreirinha Papa Figos Douro – Portugal – 2018
Subtle philosopher makes a point after all. Pleasant if quaint. Nose is nearly absent, and tongue notes are elusive. Licorice dominates, with blackcurrant close behind. But it’s all very, very subtle. This wine might shine with the right pairing, but easily wilt with an overpowering dish. Drinks easy though, and disappeared fast among the party. A reminder that I don’t drink enough wines from Portugal, and have to correct that. Grapes in this blend are 35% Tinta Roriz, 30% Tinta Barroca, 20% Touriga Franca, 15% Touriga Nacional (per Vivino.)
150 Años Edicion Aniversario Max Cabernet Sauvignon – Chile – 2018
Youngest child can’t beat his older brother. Whereas I gave the 2015 a full four stars, this one just skirts beneath that, for a 3.8. Nose is just as powerful as the earlier vintage, but fruit notes on the palate fade quickly under some uneven tannins and acid. Still very nice, just needs more time. From the Aconcagua Valley region of Chile.
Morgan Bay Cellars Chardonnay – California – 2019
You like heavy metal, and got invited to a jazz concert. Not the usual buttery mess that passes for Calichards, but tilted more to the citrus side. Lemon dominates but is smoothed out by slight oak. Some lychee in there, too. Still not a fan of chardonnay from this region, though. Pair with food, as it drinks only so-so on its own.
Andeluna Pasionado Cabernet Franc – Argentina – 2018
A new chess player beats his opponents with moves that even the masters hadn’t seen before. Another fantastic offering from Argentina’s Andaluna. Nose is super subtle, with only the only slightest hints of black fruit and spice. On the tongue it’s round, mild tannins, notes of blackberry and rosemary, and super, super dry. Drank well by itself and again very well when paired with traditional hamburger. Would be fantastic with cheese plate, too, and I’m tempted to host a cheese night with this alongside a white Riesling just for compare-and-contrast. Highly recommended. First 5-star cabernet franc ever on Winepisser!
Pulenta Estate “La Flor” Sauvignon Blanc – Argentina – 2021
Love letter got misdelivered but wound up launching a whirlwind affair anyway. Very nice new world essbie that shows how far Argentina has come with this grape; you’re on notice, Chile! Nose is what you’d expect from a New Zealand offering, with notes of slate and grass and cat pee. On the tongue, though, it’s more in line with an old world Bordeaux, less slate but with more light citrus, lemon and even some vanilla. Highly recommended. (Given that this producer’s Malbex “X” just won 4.5 stars, too, this label is one to watch.)
Morande Adventure Mediterráneo (Red Blend) – Chile – 2017
That mysterious stranger who caught your eye on the train suddenly farted, ruining the moment. This one is a weird blend of four hundred different grapes, or at least it seems that way reading the label. Apparently, it’s Grenache, Syrah, Marsanne, Carignan, Roussanne, and God knows what else. It came recommended by a wine store attendant, and a guy who has given me spotty advice in the past, so I’m now starting to wonder if they use him to shill the “non-movers.” The nose was cherry and earth, and the flavor carried through the red cherry across the palate. But then there was this burnt tinge that I’ve come to recognize as typical of when a bottle is exposed to high heat and then chilled and sold as “properly stored” later. I wrote about that here. This winery produces some good stuff (see here and here, both 4-star winners), but this bottle was fairly awful. Now that could be because it is a weirdo blend of a zillion disparate grapes, or it could be that this bottle was boiled before serving. Either way, it was bitter, harsh, and even a bit medicinal.