Quick Reviews
Bouza Monte Vide Eu (Tannat – Merlot – Tempranillo) – Uruguay – 2017
Gene splicers ignored all ethics and created a living Venus de Milo. Nose is horse stable and earth, with musty, burned oak. The palate is potent blackberry, tannins smooth as velvet. Rich, dense, luxurious. Tannat dominates but merlot adds smoothness, and tempranillo steps in with some playful fruit. Nose burns off the mustiness and reveals more fruit, but let it sit at least 15 minutes in the glass. First five-star winner for 2022! I can’t emphasize enough how Uruguay is the world’s next rising star for reds.
Épico Tempranillo Malbec Blend – Argentina – 2021
This baby’s diaper was just changed, apparently, because he’s dry. Nose is very faint, disappearing quickly after pouring. Notes of grape jam maybe? Once swigged, the jamminess resurfaces but this grapey flavor is not accompanied by sugar. Might have ranked higher but the lack of nos and swiftly disappearing finish risk making this forgettable. Otherwise, an OK glass. Was tasted alongside the Épico Sauvignon Blanc which rated the same.
Épico Sauvignon Blanc – Argentina – 2021
That politician’s autobiography was exactly how you expected, and not a bit better. Middling Sauvignon blanc that hits the usual notes of lemon and citrus but without much else. Faint nose and short finish make this forgettable, but it’s not all bad if you pair it correctly. Was tasted alongside the Épico Tempranillo / Malbec blend.
Bodega Vistalba “Corte A” Red Blend – Argentina – 2016
Holy chocolate-covered cherries, Batman! Musty nose prophesies flavors of black cherry, chocolate earthy goodness. Medium silky, moderate finish. Powerful flavors dominated above steak and ribs plate. The blend is primarily Malbec, spiked with 15% Bonarda and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. Yes, they put the cab in servitude to the malby.
Markus Molitor Haus Klosterberg Riesling – Germany – 2018
Pop-art but not pop-tart. Notes of cinnamon, honey and slate on the nose. Flavors are spiced apple, more slate and honey. Despite the honey notes, this is very not sweet. Slight fizz adds some fun, but not the best Mosel reez I’ve had. Finish is over-tart and drops the rating by at least 1/2 star.
Chemin des Papes Côtes du Rhône Villages – France – 2019
That briefcase was on sale, but it should impress the folks on the commuter train. This is a color-by-numbers Rhone red blend. Entirely serviceable and will pair with nearly any red meat you throw at it, but also nothing particularly memorable. Nose is wimpy, but flavor notes include some toast and red cherry. Finish was impressive, though. I tasted this solo, but expect it would improve with pairing. Returned a day later and it hadn’t faded.
Château d’Aussières Blason d’Aussières Corbières – France – 2019
By order of the peaky fookin’ blinders! Nose has bits of leather, very yummy. Palate is blackcurrant and darkest black cherry. Potent 14.5% alcohol shows these Languedoc boys are not playing. Medium tannins, medium acidity. This blend from the Corbières region is made by slapping together some Syrah, Grenache, Carignan, and Mourvedre.
J. Moreau & Fils Pouilly-Fuissé – France – 2018
When Tom Jones did that Prince song. It’s hard to fuck up a pooey-fwizzay. Nose is vanilla and asparagus. Chug it down the gullet and it’s all flavors of lemon, vanilla, and lemongrass. Medium dry, medium tart. Long finish. A winner. Grapes are chardonnay and sauvignon blanc.
Chemin des Papes Côtes du Rhône Blanc – France – 2019
Polaroid taken last week, but has already faded. Nose of grass and lemon, and color is light green. Flavor notes include slate and lemon. Short finish and a bit too citrus for my taste. Given the provenance, I was slightly disappointed. Might pair well with spicy fish, but was tasted solo and didn’t create any memories. Watch out for that 13% alcohol. Grapes are Viognier, Roussanne, Marsanne, and Grenache Blanc.
Zuccardi Apelación Vista Flores Malbec – Argentina – 2019
Magical disappearing act ends up a crowd-pleaser. Remarkably priced, best of breed Malbec from a country awash in the stuff. Nose is jammy jammy jammy, but once down the gullet it’s super dry, so no grape juice here, friends. Notes of plum and black cherry, but nothing too overt. I paired this with a spicy pork dish and it excelled. I’m wondering if Zuccardi can do anything wrong? (Post-tasting update: the bottle mysteriously emptied and I will not admit that I may have drunk the entire thing in one evening.)