Quick Reviews
Pulenta Gran Malbec “X” – Argentina – 2017
The house you bought in a middle-class neighborhood is discovered to have an underground passage to a lost gold mine. Nose is pure grape, but not jammy in the traditional sense; typical for the Argentinian breed. Mouthfeel is astonishing: soft, supple, dry, and surprisingly dense. Malbecs tend towards being one-note wonders, but this one has the complexity of an old cab. Dark fruit dominates, of course, with black cherry and blackberry notes present. There’s some smoke in there, too, which would mean this will pair with barbecue as well as it would a $300 fine restaurant steak. Better yet, it drinks so smooth you can enjoy this on its own, and not wait for dinner to be served. Highly recommended.
Trivento Reserve White Malbec – Argentina – 2019
Village witch turns gold into silver. I’m not sure I understand the alchemy at play that injects a citrus note into a malbec just by scraping the skins. But this is that. Lemon dominates, but a meaty hint of traditional smoke and red malby remains underneath. Odd, like one of those concept cars from the 60s. Pretty good, but not great. Put this in a white wine tasting competition and watch the fireworks as everyone’s head explodes.
Zonin 20 Ventiterre Moscato – Italy – NV
Giggling teens on a rollercoaster. This is a fun wine, so shut up. Cheap, sweet, fizzy, and fresh, but low in alcohol (7%) and easy to gulp. Sure, it would pair well with cheese or dessert, but why be traditional? Just chug the stuff from the screw top bottle, and screw convention. Main notes here are sweet green apple and apricot (but no to the level of a Tokaji, mind you.) Sugar is just right (also not a Tokaji.) Buy this in bulk and let the snobs suck it.
Arte Expression Alma Caracter Chardonnay Chenin – Argentina – 2020
That new, young substitute minister who you thought was going to be dynamic, but who then just read a passage from Luke in monotone. Chardonnay dominates, but some perfume points to the Chenin Blanc. Low acidity, low tang. Lemon is the most obvious note. Not bad, but likely forgettable. Possibly a good white wine for those just getting into wine for the first time.
Amayna Sauvignon Blanc – Chile – 2020
Undercover cop has fake mustache, but gets the job done anyway. One of the better essbies from Chile, with nose of a New Zealand offering – slate and asparagus. On the palate it’s similarly traditional, but subtle. Only slightly tart, with the slight cat pee and citrus coming through. You’d be excused if you didn’t recognize this as Chileno. Well done if not perfect. First wine reviewed for 2022.
Château Haut-Caplane Sauternes – France – 2017
Valedictorian-in-running later graduates to run pastry shop. This one is all apricot, straw and honey. Sweet as a sauternes should be, but not saccharine. Paired well with a dessert course of chocolate. Would pair better with strong goat cheese, but none on hand to try. Failed to hit 5 stars due to a faint finish and knowing there are even better ones out there. Last wine reviewed for 2021.
Château des Fines Roches Châteauneuf-du-Pape – France – 2015
Delicate flirt carries ornate-handled switchblade. This one is a gorgeous, deceiving bitch. Light ruby in color, deceptively thin in texture, but packs the usual CDP wallop of 14% alcohol. Nose is subtle shoe leather. Tongue is all black cherry with a unique earthy tone that’s not the usual dirt or soil, but something faint and mushroomy. Tannins are light and flimsy, but perfect for this wine. Finish is long, but not strong. Recommended.
Château Lamarzelle Cormey Cuvée Magnan Saint-Émilion Grand Cru – France – 2014
Shy introvert looks cute, but won’t dance with anyone. This one is too subtle. Nose is plum, but faint. Medium acidity, with smooth tannins. Very dry, with flavor notes disappearing quickly. Black cherry is the most prominent. Wilted when paired with cheese board and meats. Fared worse when tasted alone. So subtle, it’s nearly invisible. I expected this to rank much, much higher.
Château Haut-Surget Lalande-de-Pomerol – France – 2019
A day of shopping for luxury furs marred only by your looming credit limit. Fantastic Pomerol blend of merlot, cab franc, and cab sauvignon. Nose is a thick blanket of blackberry. On the tongue, it’s more blackberry, some graphite, and leather. Improved after sitting in the glass for 30 minutes. Very smooth, with deep purple color. Legs like a gazelle. Wilting finish keeps this from 5 stars.
Philippe Dreschler Gewurztraminer – France – 2018
You fall asleep naked in a meadow of honeysuckle when, suddenly, a chorus of angels rains the blessings of heaven upon you while playing Debussy; Jean-Luc Godard wishes he was this breathless. The nose is floral, with hints of honey and sweet apple. The honey carries over to the palate in droves, and gives the impression of sugar, but it’s illusion. In fact, this is not oversweet, but certainly sweeter than German offerings of the same grape. Melon and cantaloupe and only the faintest hint of typical Gewurztraminer spice. No tang at all. As I write this, it’s December 27th, and this delicious g’wertz represents the first 5-star rating for all of 2021. I paired with mutton and lentils, and it rose the plate to absolute ecstasy; even non-wine lovers enjoyed a tasting during the dinner. Pure joy all around. Went equally well with a balsamic vinegar salad course, showing off the gymnastics a good Gewurztraminer will go to in order to work with any plate you can throw at it. Don’t let the price point dissuade you into thinking this is anything but a stellar wine.