Quick Reviews
Zuccardi Poligonos Verdejo San Pablo – Argentina – 2018
Sure, that tune is catchy but only because it’s similar to something else you heard once. Fairly typical verdejo and will be fine if you like the grape. For me, it was too standard: citrus, lemon, a bit of slate. Tart bordering on bitter. Paired better with chicken plate than when drunk solo. A surprising miss from the otherwise stellar Zuccardi family.
Oveja Negra Chardonnay Viognier Reserva – Chile 2021
Two old school chums get together and the resulting conversation is suitably delightful. Very nice chardonnay / viognier blend, with the chardonnay smoothing out some of the minerality. Notes of apricot. Label recommends pairing with camembert or salmon and I wouldn’t disagree. Still a bit tart to drink on its own. I paired with mild pork and yellow rice dish, and it improved the dish dramatically. I haven’t been impressed with the wines coming out of the Valle del Maule region, but this one is very nice. (Although another Oveja Negra offering – a red carmenere / white sauvignon blanc blend – won 4 stars here, back in 2017.) Can’t beat the price, either.
Zonin 20 Ventiterre Montepulciano d’Abruzzo – Italy – 2019
A noir film for which Hitchcock directed the first reel, but then JJ Abrams was swapped in for the rest. Nose on this is great, a bit jammy but not overso, reminded me of a favorite old-vine gamay. But on the palate, it’s a boring, flat example of a grape which already struggles to do much at this price point. A few brief fruit notes up front give way to a flat middle and long but boring finish. Full disclosure: I’ve always found Montys to be dull, so perhaps I’m skewed. I’m hoping to someday gain an appreciation for them, but tasting cheap bottles is likely the wrong way to do it.
Pazo Señorans Colección Albariño Rías Baixas – Spain – 2019
Your southern cousin lived in New England for a while and tried to drop his accent, with mixed results. Less tart than others of the breed, but still has a twang. Another fine Spanish alby, with faint nose notes of honey and lemon. Once inside the piehole, flavors of lemon remain, with green apple dominating. The finish thinks its running a marathon. Would pair well with meats and cheeses, but drinks fine solo. Watch out for that 13.5% alcohol, though.
Masseria Altemura Sasseo Primitivo Salento – Italy – 2018
A Valentine’s Day gift of chocolate-covered cherries with a note promising some Marvin Gaye fueled bedspring squeaking later. Nose is subtle but chocolate is the primary note. On the tongue it’s medium-smooth with lots of typical zinfandel fruit notes, including loads of black cherry and prune. Dry, but not Saharan. Whopping 14.5% alcohol is typical for the primitivo zins coming from the Salento region of Puglia. I felt it needed more years, but can’t deny the fruit was tasty. Zinfans will love it.
Viña Vieja Gran Rose Semi Seco – Peru – NV
A dimwitted cheerleader who would have a better career in advertising. The nose is cotton candy dipped in window cleaner. On the tongue, it’s slightly better, without the notes of industrial cleaner. Super sweet despite the “semi-seco” labeling, as I noted in the review of the same bottler’s Chenin Blanc. Fans of light, sweet wines might not object to this super cheap table wine which refuses to admit what grapes are in it. Better than it should be, but still poor. Probably deserves a 2.75 rating, not a full 3.0. Snobs stay away.
Bodegas Arraez “Vividor” Bobal – Spain – 2019
That middle-aged guy with the faux leather windbreaker and second-hand Porshe is clearly compensating for something. A meaty nose promised a possibly great pairing with beef, but things fell flat quickly. The main notes here are ripe red fruit (too ripe, in fact) and some licorice, if you’re feeling imaginative. But very little depth, a short finish, and an overall lack of character make this boring. The garish label is clearly trying to distract you from what’s in the bottle. An unfair representation of the rare Bobal grape.
Santa Julia Chardonnay – Argentina – 2021
That quirky new indie film was supposed to be great, but in the end the poster was better than the movie. Serviceable and super cheap chardonnay that hits the right notes but just very, very quietly. Notes of vanilla, lemon, with a medium level of sugar. Paired nicely with spiced whitefish. Short finish, disappears quickly. To be honest, I like a chardonnay that fades behind the food, and this is that. Just not otherwise memorable.
Zonin 20 Ventiterre Pinot Grigio – Italy – 2020
Your date was so pretty in her sundress, and so charming as she explained her new tattoo, that the both of you forget you were eating free breadsticks at Olive Garden. After so much Sauvignon Blanc and Albarino, it’s easy to forget there’s a lighter, less spicy side to white wines. This Pinot Grigio is that: less complicated, less controversial, and likely forgettable. But nevertheless, it’s very, very nice in the moment. Served paired with a chicken breast lightly fried in sesame oil, this went down very nicely. Nose is barely there, taste notes are only hints of apple, spice and lemon. Everything about this is subtle. Sure, it’s mid-grade, chain restaurant quality, but you’ll have enough fun to enjoy it anyway.
Château Haut Peyruguet Bordeaux Rouge – France – 2018
A young, erudite university student who has affected a smoking jacket and pipe, but isn’t old enough to smoke. Smooth tannins, mild tobacco on the back end, otherwise the force of young red fruit is strong with this one. Lack of any nose at all will make you wonder if you have COVID. For me, neither the merlot nor the cab dominates the other. I paired with mutton and lentil dish, and was fantastic. Just missing a final element to grant a higher score.